It’s not every day that the grandeur of ancient Rome collides with a supersized French fry, but this week in central Rome’s Galleria Alberto Sordi shopping mall, that improbable intersection manifested in colorful, stone-tiled form. As documented by Wanted in Rome, visitors were greeted by an “ancient Roman” mosaic—complete with a banquet scene right out of a Caesar fever dream. The twist? The mosaic’s dignitaries are feasting on hamburgers and fries, alongside the Golden Arches.
The Archaeological Record, Remixed
McDonald’s, never one to pass up a theatrical marketing moment, engineered the scene as part of their “Enjoy the Classics” campaign. The outlet reports that the mosaic was set up to look as if it had just been unearthed during an archaeological dig—though the most recognizable relic was perhaps the unmistakable logo, rather than any depiction of Bacchus.
Reaction, as Wanted in Rome notes, was immediate and predictably polarized. Social media users alternated between eye-rolling at what some saw as an egregious act of aesthetic sacrilege, to an abundance of memes and amused shrugs from those who could appreciate the joke. Is it poor taste to pair a Big Mac with an ancient Roman feast, or just the punchline we all deserve in the era of mall archaeology?
When in Rome, Eat as the Romans… Might Have?
Rome is no stranger to fast food in all its evolving iterations. As highlighted in the coverage, McDonald’s first opened its doors in the Eternal City back in 1986, remarkably close to the Spanish Steps—a decision that probably ruffled a few purists even then. Now, with over 50 locations scattered across the city, one almost has to wonder if future generations will find their own “ancient” relics consisting mostly of Happy Meal toys and crumpled wrappers.
Of course, determining which details in this installation are meant as homage and which skew to satire is part of the fun—or frustration, depending on your sensibilities. Is it a clever pastiche that pokes at tradition while acknowledging Rome’s ever-layered history, or simply a PSA for cheeseburgers masquerading as cultural commentary? The outlet also notes that the mosaic will be visible until June 7, giving locals and tourists a limited window to ponder these weighty matters among the perfume counters.
Golden Arches in the Ruins
The juxtaposition of imperial banquet and fast food snack is exactly the kind of oddity that makes one pause in a shopping mall, if not the forum. No doubt the ancient Romans had their own debates about culinary standards, but imagining them trading olives for fries is a special flavor of anachronism. The mixed reception on social media highlights a timeless truth: nothing unites—or divides—a city quite like an unexpected incursion of the modern into the sacred space of the past.
Does installing a faux-archaeological mosaic in one of Rome’s busiest public spaces cross the line from playful to cringeworthy? Or is it simply another layer in the city’s famously complex relationship to change—a gentle reminder that every era adds its own oddities to the record, snack food included?
Ultimately, the real spectacle might be the crowds themselves—some arching an amused eyebrow, others sighing into their Aperol Spritz—all momentarily distracted by the sight of Romans past and present, united (at least in stone) for a fast food lunch that would almost certainly perplex Caesar. In a city built on layers, perhaps a cheeseburger mosaic is just the latest stratum.